Category Archives: cosplay

DropBOB commissioned project – Pyramid Head – Painted, added finishing touches and DONE!

So I’ve completed the Made-to-Order Pyramid Head helmet for a Silent Hill Stage Production commissioned through my Etsy Shop.

Here’s the Recap. I built most of the structure & was ready for paint just this past Weekend.

Continue reading DropBOB commissioned project – Pyramid Head – Painted, added finishing touches and DONE!

DropBOB commissioned project – Pyramid Head – Materials Purchased for Manufacturing!

So the approvals are back! The Etsy listing updated and the order confirmed! Things are rolling.

I’ve purchased all the materials needed from the hardware store. I’ll be picking this up tomorrow. Just in time for me to begin manufacturing on the weekend. Stoked!

DropBOB commissioned project – Pyramid Head – Approval Drawings

So I’ve been busy working on finishing the Model and coming up with a good set of Approvals/Layouts for my commissioned Pyramid Head Cosplay. It’s been a real hit on my Etsy Page.
I’m not quite happy with these yet, but it’s a start. I often berate the drafters at my “other job” for having terrible drawings … but making drawings from scratch is hard. Especially when the information you want to convey/receive is not fully defined yet.

Continue reading DropBOB commissioned project – Pyramid Head – Approval Drawings

Vancouver Fan Expo Recap

Just wanted to post a quick recap of the Vancouver Fan Expo while it’s fresh. This was the first year I attended and I must say, I was thoroughly impressed. Apparently there was over 25,000 people over 3 days. I only attended the Saturday.

There were some really amazing costumes from creative to exact replicas … Some people even attended all 3 days with 3 entirely different cosplay costumes. #goals

The following photos were taken by the lovely JellyJube, with some editing in Lightroom by moi.

more pictures after the break …

The amazing thing is that this cosplay held up very well during the whole time we were there. I did not have to take it off at all (from approx 1pm to 7pm). The helmet was not too hot, or tight. The LED eyes were on the whole time. Nothing broke off. It was a huge success.

One of my favorite things (after all the cosplay mingling and ooo-aaah-ing) was the cards against humanity improv show. We tried to attend a few others, but they either got cancelled or were too full. So maybe next year I’ll be more organized and attend some other ones.

A few things to note: I did not finish the second gun in time for the Expo (this first one was actually drying still as we were driving over). But I’ll finish it before I sell this off. I also need to bolt in the rockets instead of screw in … Since I kicked one off at dinner (I was still wearing them after the event … for fun). I lost one of the headphone foam things … So I’ll replace that with the orange ones from the movie. And lastly, I need to make the guns easier to reload … They go “bang” really nice (just noise, no projectile), but the reloading is not as easy as I want it to be.

I’ll be adding a feature photo (and maybe video) to show off all the features of the Star Lord Cosplay right before I list it on here.

Cheers, and as always, message me if you are interested in any of my work (notice that I added the Lego blocks from a few posts ago to my listing of available hand-craft-made-to-order products)

-DropBOB Designs

posted from Bloggeroid

Poor Man’s Lathe

Just a simple post today. I’m adding the finishing touches to my Star Lord cosplay costume (Making the foot rockets), just in time for the Vancouver Fan EXPO. I wanted to share a simple hack that I’m sure others have done (or not) in the past.

I was in need of a Lathe … but I had none in sight … (had to change the audio … more calming than the high pitch squeals). Also, sorry for the vertical video (It’s best watch on your phone).

Continue reading Poor Man’s Lathe

Star Lord Mask – Functionality Upgrade, the only star lord mask you can wear all night

After wearing this helmet yesterday for the first time in public, I absolutely needed to perform this upgrade! Holy shit, you do not realize how trapped you feel when wearing a foam mask that does not open. Have you seen the movie: Man in the Iron Mask … The movie does not do this feeling justice. This is why I decided that I had no choice but to perform the surgery!

So now, I can go to Vancouver Fan Expo 2016 without having to worry. I can wear this helmet the whole time. Drink my fancy cold brew coffee, without having to take off the helmet.
Here’s what I have so far (from left to right):
    – Old school earphones that I can abuse and not worry: Koss On-Ear Headphones – in Red
    – Sony Walkman (from Mom-in-law’s closet … its great to not throw things away)
    – Partially built Starlord guns (future blog post to follow)
    – The Star Lord Helmet, complete with High/Low power red glowing eyes & air intakes
    – And finally, my awesome new favorite bag: Canvas Triangle Chest Bag
Though, if you want your cosplay to be on point, you should really just opt for the replica walkman on amazon:

The helmet upgrade was quite stressful though. I had no way to know if it would work … and once you cut, there is no going back. So, with a sharp exacto, I carefully cut the foam at the seams. Made sure to move most of the wiring out of the way. The only wiring that is on the faceplate is 2 simple wires to power the leds on the eyes. The magnet wire I used to wire the entire helmet had to be upgraded to regular sheathed wire for the interface between the helmet and the faceplate. This needed to be done otherwise the magnet wire would eventually break with use (too flimsy).

With the faceplate cut out, Now I could test out and install a proper mechanism for the faceplate to rise (similar to the iron man helmet, which was actually the inspiration for this).

The best thing I could buy for this purpose was this Friction Lid Support typically used for furniture lids. It’s thin enough to fit in the tightest spots (this helmet is snug, and I had no issues). Using some contact cement I glued in some Pronged T-Nuts to the inside of the helmet and bolted the other end to the faceplate.

You can see on the inside that I bent the back end a little as it was just a tad too long for the helmet. I also added a rubber washer and removed the little metal restrictor that prevented opening too much. The rubber washer adds just enough friction to hold up the faceplate and prevent the mechanism from pushing out (I don’t need it to push out, I just want rotation).
Here’s a preview for my next post on the making of the Star Lord guns, I’ll keep you posted! Feel free to share this if you like it, and as always, these mad projects are fueled by the cold brew coffee that comes out of my hand crafted DropBOB(tm) Cold drip coffee makers. Available for purchase! Made to order. Build your own from the options available in my shop (click on the “Add to your cart” to start building your order!)

-the DropBOB team

Halloween Cosplay Build – Star Lord, the making of

Custom made, Star lord cosplay by DropBOB Designs
Star Lord Helmet, Cosplay by DropBOB Designs

My Star Lord Helmet is finally complete. Read on for the making of this helmet by DropBOB designs.

I wanted to make my own version of the Start Lord helmet from Guardians of the Galaxy, but I didn’t just want to make a replica. I wanted to make is a little more utilitarian/steampunkish. I didn’t want to go full out steampunk though. Here’s how it all started (foam sheets from Michaels):

I found a really great flat pattern online for the helmet here. All Credit go to JFCustom for the creation of this original 3D foam flat pattern file. 

I ended up modifying the file so that all the pieces would fit onto exactly 4 sheets of 8.5″x11″. I had bought the 4 sheets of foam before I had this pattern, so the challenge was on! Like a tetris champ I managed to fit the original 8 sheets all onto 4 sheets.

In the process of doing this, I learned about this great program: Pepakura. A great program to make any mask into simple flat patterns. From the popular iron man masks to the less popular bunny heads. You can even use it to make custom designs from imported 3d CAD files. (Soon coming to a DropBOB Designs near you!)

After cutting out all the pieces, the fun begins! Glueing to make a 3 dimensional mask. The best glue for foam is Contact cement. This year I took into consideration the wife … I bought low odor contact cement. The tradeoff is that instead of taking 5 min to dry, it takes 30 min to dry. So this lead to a series of “your not even working on your costume” … “I’m waiting for glue to dry” responses.

It didn’t take long for it to star looking like something. For really tight angles, after gluing with the contact cement, I also applied some silicone to the seams. This added smooth joints to the mask as well as added strength and flexibility.

Using some thin 1/8″ thick foam, I added the Star Lord mask mouth detail. Layering it adds realistic texture, compared to just painting or drawing it in.

I also added a wooden plate to each side of the helmet to mount the electronics. I needed something sturdier than foam to mount these. The film version of the mask has 3 round tubes for “decoration” here. But I like my designs to be a little more useful than this. So, this houses my batteries. I actually custom designed the electronics for this project using an online Circuit Simulator Applet.

I really love this tool as it allows you visualize the current flow and speed (Amps & Volts respectively). So I designed the circuit to have a high power and a low power mode for each the air intake fans and the led eyes. 2 switches to toggle back and forth low/high and 2 switches to turn on/off.

You can download my Circuit Sim file here. and play with it if you want to modify it.

Here are the list of electronic components (all from … best electronic shop), not including tools to assemble:


The magnet wire was the best idea too! because it is enameled instead of using thick insulation, its super easy to score the foam and tuck the wire into the foam to route each line to each component (you can see this on the photo showing the inside of the mask).

while routing the electronics, its also important to visualize it as it will be laid out on the mask. This helps you simplify the number of wires to run inside the mask.

Note as well that I designed the circuit with power requirements in mind. I’m using 6x 950mAh rechargeable batteries. with the estimated power draw from the Circuit simulator, I estimate the turbo mode to be able to run for 3.3-hrs and the regular mode to run for 7-hrs. I played around with resistances to be able to run as long as possible while keeping the low mode as close as possible to the minimum drop in voltage that the motors and led’s will take and high power mode being 2x more than low power.

A few tests along the way while wiring up the SMD leds (surface mount technology) help since the wiring of these tiny devices is quite difficult:

Helping hands required!

After the eyes were completed, the air intake was started. I’m using the same 1.5″ ID, 1.9″ OD PVC tube I had laying around in my workshop.

And I caped it off with a funnel cut to fit the tube perfectly. Also note the generous use of silicone to seal the openings after gluing it down with some more contact cement. Since these air intakes will be pulling air from the outside and pushing into the inside of the mask, I actually simulated the flow on a fluid simulator:

See the small opening for the air to flow out of.
you can see the turbulence caused by the blades, these blades are not efficient at all! oh well …
flow is out of the mouth at approx 0.05m/s max

I actually designed the fans and got them sent to 3D print before I did the fluid flow simulation (defeating the purpose of analysing the flow). But it definitely made me feel better while I waited for the prints to come in.

I setup the boundary conditions all around the assembly to be open, 1atm, no flow. I then made the blades spin clockwise at 17,000 rpm (max rated motor speed). It was nice to see that the air actually got pulled and pushed by the blades in the simulation.

Next time, I will optimize the flow with a few parameters: #blades vs mass airflow, blade angle vs mass airflow, etc.

Eventually the blades came in, and I mounted them, tested the circuit and the flow and all was perfect! The flow on high power mode is great for when its hot and stuffy, and low power is good for low noise. With this setup I can wear the mask all day and not sweat like crazy. Which, like most cosplayers know too well, sucks.

Next step, add elmers glue to insulate the foam. This step is essential to apply prior to coating the whole thing with urethane. After the glue is dry, a nice and thick application of 2 part Urethane (also got this at Michaels). You can coat the whole thing with this. Careful to keep the battery contacts clear, otherwise they won’t conduct.

Also right before you apply the urethane, use some sand paper to make the copper shine. Then apply the urethane. This will keep the metal from oxidizing and keeps the copper looking new.

After using painters tape to protect the eyes and electronics, use a dark base color followed by some lighter colors on top. After it dries, a light sanding will give it a weathered look.

After removing the painters tape, feel free to add small details with a tiny brush. Black lines helps to add a more Borderlands effect.

Star Lord, chilling with the wife

Overall super happy how this turned out, considering its my first fully functional foam helmet Cosplay. Looking forward to wearing this at the Vancouver Fan Expo. Nebula was supposed to show up … but she’s canceled now … sad. That’s ok, my favorite actress, the engineer from firefly, is still supposed to be there.

This mask (& accessories) will be available next year (Oct 2017) for sale. Also, check out my other items for sale (add to your cart on my page) including my Cold Drip Coffee Maker, and last year’s Cosplay Pyramid head (build post 1, build post 2).