Category Archives: #halloween

Bobby’s Silent Hill: Pyramid Head Costume 2015 – Week 2 Progress

So I’ve almost completed the head part of this costume. And since I’ll be attending the Vancouver Halloween Parade, I have to make sure not to put any gore and blood on it as its a “family” oriented event. But don’t worry, The gore will be added after this.

Since last week, I’ve added mesh & cast iron pipes & foam.

I started trying to screw in the mesh with fasteners and washers … but it was actually way stronger and faster to just hot glue it.

The foam was glued in using my favorite glue: PL 8x I haven’t yet found something this glue can’t do! It’s low odor and does not melt foam (most glues do this because of the acetone).

With these major upgrades the head already looks badass!

Drinking always gets those creative juices flow!

Adding some of these Cast iron union joints (these are my favorite parts, they just feel really good in the hands).

And since the structure is build with 1/2″ plywood, attaching anything is simple.

Adding the foam strategically to fit your body is key!

Now that you have the whole thing built up. Adding some paint just makes the whole thing POP!

After a little bit of searching. I found that the best color and style for this is the Hammered Brown. It gives it a cast iron sheen and gives it a galvanized texture. Perfect for this project!

The mandatory painters tape!

And after a few complaints from the smell coming from the wife … and voila. Let it dry overnight and you have yourself a metallic looking helmet!

Now to make the rear wiglet looking things. Note, that I could have left these out as they are pure aesthetic … but no. I go all the way!

And since I only want it to look like the bolts actually bolt right into my spine … I’ll end up cutting these.

Ya, I love sparks! I know.

Using the PL glue again, you can add to this piece.

And that’s what it’s supposed to look like once installed. And, to give it some extra emphasis … I’ll actually keep these metallic silver (galvanized).

And don’t forget to paint the interior foam black … makes it look professional.

Up next: Don’t forget the most important part:

I figured that there was no other way to make this perfectly other than 3d printing … So I got this commissioned: MakeFamilyFun’s Hub kindly made this part for me after I designed on it Solidworks. For about $35, I was able to get this part printing withing a few hours.

Up next, install the red gear, buy material for the bottom of the costume (the pants), and make the ginormous sword … standby!

(1st Weekend) – Progress on Bobby’s Halloween costume. Seriously, what is this thing!!

So … can you tell now what I’m working on? … Maybe you need to get back in touch with your inner 90’s-kid-playing-playstation-2 … I used to play this game with my brothers in the dark basement at night … It’s always stuck with me since.

photocredit: Wikipedia page
photocredit: TOM PARKER (Character artist) This guy is good!

This year, I’m going for an actual horror movie character. If you haven’t seen the “Silent Hill” movies or played the games, don’t sweat it. The game was fun (as I remember it), the movies were ok. I liked it because I played the games. The character’s name is “Pyramid head” … dunno why …

So, I started with the best part. The head:

To begin with, I purchased a sheet of 1/4″ thick plywood at the “Depot”. You’ll need at least 2 sheets of 24″ x 48″ (that’s what I got). This stuff is ridiculously useful so feel free to splurge.

Now the tricky part. How the donkey do I get the right shapes? I’ve looked online and found nothing decent! a few simple attempts but nothing that will give me a decent looking shape. So I decided to take matters into my own hands. Design it myself on CAD and keep it flexible enough to mold it into the exact shape I want using the images online as a guide. Simple right?

We’ll yes, maybe for me. But I think it would be nice for me to share my work so that you don’t have to waste your time doing the same thing if you wanted to attempt this. Here’s My Solidworks 3D CAD model uploaded to GrabCAD. Feel free to download it.

Here are the simple shapes you’ll need if you don’t want to mess around with the CAD stuff:

Now, here’s something useful I’ve used on many projects. Remember how my worktable is made of full on 2×4’s. I used another piece of lumber and I drill it right into the table for extra support. I love this table.

After you draw the shapes you want on the wood, the Best tool for this Job is a tiny little saw that could! This Dremel Max is really the perfect tool for this job. I bought it from Home Depot for under $100 CAD.

Hard to see here, but I actually modified the guide a little to make the cuts even more flush! This tool advertised flush cuts! But I wanted super flush cuts! so I trimmed back the plastic guides to make that work.
And I also wanted to point out one of my new favorite tools … a digital angle ruler. accurate up to 0.1-degree. Couldn’t have done these shapes without it. Got this one from Canadian tire.
Here’s what you get after all the cuts.

Now that you have the wood cut, It’s time to attach them together. To do that, I use a flat wood joining plate Using my self made bending Jig (2 angle iron’s drilled together) placed in my vice.

And then I use my angle tool again to eye-ball the bend. I get the angles from the CAD file I built. But If you don’t want to get into the file to get the angles, here they are: 5x 71.5deg, 6x 122.1deg, 4x 134.2deg, & 3x 163.6deg (going from front to back … I’m sure you can figure out which ones).

Here’s a few up close pics of the build.

Oh, I almost forgot. I picked up 2x boxes of 100x #6 x 1/2″ long flat socket head particle board screws. I’m running low … you should probably get 300x at least.

Next step, Make it fit well, make it look good, add the mesh & foam. I’m happy with progress so far. And this thing is sturdy as a horse!

Halloween 2014 – The making of Dr. Octopus

After the first weekend of production I had 3 arms made and ready to go. The costume was looking like it would be done super quick! But as the 80:20 rule always comes around, These last 2 days have been showing a little let progress. (note: the 80:20 rule refers to 80% of the work is done in 20% of the time … it is a general term that essentially means that the last part of a project is always the longest)

Anyways, I’ve managed to complete all 4 arms & claws (Just need more glue on the last one, I ran out). I’ve also made a trip to Value Village and picked-out out a great trench coat and fedora hat.

This project is basically a replica of the movie version of Dr. Octopus. I’d like to point out that I’ve been heavily relying on the work of another artist known as: Spider-Trooper. Here is his making-of Gallery.
So far the biggest stumbling point I’ve had has been the claws. I initially thought they would work with the same foam I used for the arms …
Ya, that didn’t work so good. A little too droopy.
After some frustration. Jenn pointed out the foam I had used on the 2013 Halloween costume. This foam is much stiffer and still very light. I do need to point out that the key to this costume is to keep things light. As much as I would love to make this a functional mechanical beast with adjustable parts, that would make the costume weight too much and would require I start lifting weights just to carry it … 

My little claw turrets

The glue I used for this is the “Pl-Premium Construction Adhesive x8“. This is my new favorite glue … as long as brown is fine. This stuff is like cement!

After some thought and frustration about how I was going to attach this monster to my back, I eventually bought some clips and guarder material from Michael’s. It cost $20 for 3x buckles and a 3m role of guarder … Jenn’s had the smarter Idea to go to Winners and buy a cheap back pack … I swear sometimes I think Jenn has all the good ideas … the backpack was also $20 but came with everything I needed and more even!

So, since I’ve been working so hard, I’ve somewhat ignored many of the 5S practices that I personally preach at work:
Jenn, “gently” nudged me to clean up because I was tracking foam and stuff all over the house … 
It actually feels so much better. I was able to think more clearly and work more efficiently after the clean-up. Thanks Jenn!
Here is my project so far after about 4 days of work:
Stupid HTC “purple tint defect
4 trips to Home Depot: $117.07
1 Trip to Winners: $21.28
1 Trip to Value Village: $37.08
1 Craigslist purchase: $35
Subtotal so far: $210.43
And here are the CAD files I’ve used if you want to make this one day: Drop-box Link if you need them.

Halloween 2014 … the time has come

So, this year, as every year. The time has come to spend way too much time on a Halloween costume.

If any of you know me, I hate to follow the masses and purchase a pre-cooked costume from the evil companies overcharging for costumes because they know the general population is too lazy to work hard for a costume.

Here are some old costumes of mine from the years past:


 So what can I possibly do this year? Seriously … Its already Oct 2nd … I’m way behind schedule … I only right now decided what I will be and I’m only picking up some of the material staring tomorrow …

Do you think I can do it?

I have a work function Halloween party … so this year I will have added pressure for the deadline.

Here’s a hint at what I’ve got so far:

Aperture portal gun (codename: project aperture)

So now that we’re so close to the finish line, it takes just a little longer to get things accomplished as you take just a few more moments to admire the almost-finished-product…
As a push to the finish, and also a matter of trying to respect building noise bylaws, I cut all the claw pieces out in one shot. I also do the drilling.
The claws are assembled using 10-32 socket heads with washers.
Once all the pieces are installed I add some silicone caulking to all the tabs to prep for painting
The paint seriously nails it! Right after the first coat of paint is done you realize: “holy sh*t, it actually worked”. Kinda like in home alone when Kevin realizes his wish came true and his family is gone … Except Better.
Happy Halloween!
And no portal gun is complete without it’s very own mini turret!

Aperture portal gun (codename: project aperture)

Once the molds were done, I proceeded to make the fiberglass shells.

I coated the mould with three layers of flour wax, then applied one generous layer of fiberglass resin (this is when you pray to the fiberglass gods that you don’t fuse it together)
I used about 2 to 3 layers of fiberglass and I rubbed in the resin with my fingers to make sure there were no air bubbles (this last part is seriously the most important part).
 Once all shells complete, I fitted them and trimmed to suit, attached them with industrial grade Velcro, and added some plywood tabs using epoxy.
I added double sided screws with one side ground perfectly to fit the air compressor tubes I bought.
One claw was then tested using MDF. I wasn’t sure if it would be strong enough. Turns out it was.

Aperture portal gun (codename: project aperture)

This next step probably took about 2-3 weeks and was painful and arduous. The process is simple, using solidworks I printed cross sections of the shape, I was making, I even had the surface extended so that I could more easily work with the mold. One the cross sections were cut from foam, I used super 77 glue to glue the pieces together. It’s the only flute I could find that does not melt foam. After that it’s layer after layer of bondo then sanding, then bondo, then sanding, it really never ended…

For the front piece, I opted to start with a plug, then I made a mold from the plug. I did this so I wouldn’t have to sand a ridiculously concave structure.

Once my plug was fully sanded to a baby smooth 1000 grit wetsanding, I used floor wax (3 layers) to prevent the fiberglass resin from sticking to my plug. Worked like a charm. I even liked the texture it left on my mold so I didn’t even have any sanding left to do once the bondo was done.

Aperture portal gun (codename: project aperture)

A few more days of work and I created the base using ply wood and some sturdy cardboard. Then with a little spray paint (flat black) I got myself some nice looking  base structures.
The part that you don’t see is the fact that the back of the gun opens using a wing nut on a large screw attached to the PVC.
Also, I had to use Bondo to make the foam paintable. Fyi, don’t try to spraypaint foam, it melts.